Vindima 2014 7th October 2014

Thursday started with another great breakfast at Quinta de la Rosa. As we had been summoned by Jean to have lunch at one at her lovely Quinta do Val da Figueira we decided to join the winery tour at la Rosa, which started at eleven. It was joined after it started by several late arrivals from Pinhão. As a result of the large group and the noise of the machinery it was sometimes difficult to hear what Marça was saying. We had a marvellous lunch with Jean and Johnnie which didn't end till four. Dot was quite taken by Jean's new dog. After all that we were so full of food and drink we just had a quick swim and spent the rest of the day reading with just a banana and apple each for dinner.

On Friday we thought we would hike over to Quinta Nova da Nossa Senhora do Carmo as the weather looked set fair. After a hot walk of more than two hours we scrambled down a slope into the quinta's own vines. However when we went in and asked to buy a glass of port we were shooed away empty handed. The dragon who chucked us out watched us like a hawk to make sure we were gone.

The Dining Room at Quinta Nova

After such dreadful treatment you can imagine that we won't be going near the quinta or its products ever again! We lunched on the fruit we had brought with us before the long walk back. The pickers at Quinta do Infantado gave us a cheery wave which made us wonder if they remembered when we had lunch there a couple of years ago. That experience of traditional Portuguese hospitality was in marked contrast to our appalling treatment at Quinta Nova. Back at la Rosa we had a cooling dip and a good rest before heading down to Cais da Foz again for the big meal we felt we had earned that day. We had one of my favourite dishes, feveras, and I managed a breakthrough with my Portuguese by asking for and getting boiled potatoes rather than chips. On our way back to our room we were again persuaded to join in the evening's treading.

The weather on Saturday looked pretty good too so we thought we would have a go at walking to Quinta do Portal so I could stock up on 27 Grapes. First there was the steady hot climb up to Provesende on the marked trail. We slaked our thirsts with beers in the delightful bar cum museum in the village square. This is a real must-see as the premises are packed with all manner of old implements sometimes arranged in amusing sculptures. Early on in my Portuguese course I had learned what a turtle was (tartaruga) little thinking that I would ever use it. However there was one swimming around in an old enameled bowl! We

Well it had been quite a climb!

proceeded up to the amazing São Domingues view point, which I think was an old stone circle before it was christianised. After that came my downfall as whilst trying to find the quickest way to the Quinta do Portal I lead a terrified Dot down what seemed to be a neat vertical path of scree. We lived to tell the tale but we certainly won't be going that way again. The delightful ports we tasted helped ease our tired legs after a good five hours on foot. We arranged for a taxi back to Pinhão and were soon catching up with Gloria in her Princesa do Douro pastelaria over a glass of tawny port and a sticky cake. The waitress at Cais da Fox was amazed at our appetites as we tucked into a scrumptious platefull of stewed red fish. As we were so tired we were let off treading duties that evening.

Sunday was our transfer day to Quinta de Marrocos. There was no rush so we had a leisurely breakfast before packing. Dot even made time for a quick dip. When I came to pay they let us off one night because of the disruption caused by the building work, which was a jolly decent gesture to make. As we walked to the station Jean pulled up and gave us a lift for the rest of the way. She was miffed to find Dot in the Sunday market half an hour later. I stayed at the station reading. Dot considered buying a machete for my next rambling escapade, either that or to kill me with afterwards! The train and taxi trip was uneventful apart from talking with our fellow passengers. The family was pleased to see us again at Marrocos. Our room was charmingly old fashioned and rustic with lovely personalised towels. We did a tour and a tasting with a Canadian couple and then got to know the three Americans who were also staying. Before we knew it it was time for an excellent four course meal followed by an evening of chat and port.

We needed a chill out day on Monday. After a pleasantly substantial breakfast we

Looking for vine roots in the schist

spent a good couple of hours exploring the vertiginous vineyards before settling down on the swing seat for a good read accompanied by the quinta cat and an enormous hound. We were the only two eating there that night. The carrot, pumpkin, potato and garlic soup was scrumptious. Then, o joy o bliss, the main course was feijoada. I was so full I could only eat half my fruit salad and one bite of chocolate cake afterwards. After a chat and a couple of ports with Cesar, the owner, we made an early night of it.

Today we had a taxi back to Regua to stay at the Imperio Hotel. After leaving our bags at reception we walked along the river and up around Godim. On the way back we popped into the Caves Vale do Rodo to try out and buy a bottle of their Réccua pink port. We also bought bananas and apples for lunch at the town market. We found a bench by the river close to the hotel to eat them on and realised we had been walking for two hours. After checking in and resting for a bit we headed out to Castelinho at Quinta de São Domingos where we had a great tasting whilst watching a new video. We came away with a bottle of the renowned Castelinho white and one of Martha's 2005 Colheita. A stroll along the recently restored foot bridge was called for to walk off the tasting. We are now getting ready for what should be a good night at O Maleiro restaurant.